Watch out!! I read a piece in Sea Kayaker magazine recently that showed what can happen if you don't secure your kayak on your rooftop with a bow and a stern line, in addition to the two straps on the rack. I use a nice Yakima rack costing $400+. My bow line was a good quality kayak strap with a buckle. On the way home with the boat two nites ago, I fastened the bow line to a secure part of the car and had 5-6 feet of excess strap. I coiled this and secured it to the strap with a knot. While driving, the excess came uncoiled and dragged beneath the car. Suddenly my kayak was pulled down violently and sprung back. The pull had bent the kayak like a banana causing numerous cracks right thru the hull. I totally ruined a Delta 18.5 Sport costing $2500+. I think my homeowners insurance will cover some of it. Beware of ANY excess straps or ropes. PS. I bought a three year old used WS Tempest today for $650 and paddled it today. ===Sadder, Poorer and Wiser.

thanks fr the tip I just started roof topping but I have had similar experience with cargo strap dragging on a flat bed trailer. Hope it works out as well as possible for you.

Paul, condolences--a real bummer! Almost happened to me once, but luckily I was moving very slowly at a launch site, and managed to save the situation (and the boat).

I never roof-top any of my boats. That is what trailers are for. I realize that nothing is perfect--not even trailers, but at least when being transported on a trailer, the boats are not subject to near the forces and stresses that they are on top of a vehicle.

What I worry about most when using a trailer is that some clod will run into the boat, which sticks out behind the trailer. The bunks are high enough, though that the boat would probably go right through their windshield.

Thanks for the reminder though, Paul; I'll redouble my efforts to secure all ropes even better. Sorry for your loss.

Things are looking up! I contacted Mark Hall at Delta Kayaks and he convinced me that my boat can in fact be repaired. He described the materials needed and the process for repairing Delta TCS boats. I took the boat to my local kayak shop and their repair person has agreed to repair it for a great price. Mark from Delta gave us a toll-free number to contact him for guidance and assistance. The bonding agent, Devcon Plastic Welder, had to be ordered from a distributor. My boat should be ready for the water sometime next week. I am really relieved and I can't wait to paddle it again!

Let us know how the repairs work. I'd be interested to know if the repairs show, or if there is a way to refinish like new. Is everything straight and fair?

I was told the crack will still be visible on the hull. It is straight and fair although the surface is curved. I read on the web that you should widen the crack into a "V" and then fill with the bonding agent. The pedal adjustment rod for the "Sea Dog" rudder system was also broken, but it's set to my length. I'll have to find and replace the part when I sell the boat. The day after the accident, I bought a used WS Tempest 170 from EMS' paddling school. That means I'll have four boats and limited space in the garage, so I'll sell my Hurrican Expedition 140 and maybe my Delta. I paddled the Tempest and it's a lot sportier than the Delta.

Sometimes bad luck can be turned to your advantage. This might be an opportunity to look around and check out some other boats. Keep an open mind and have fun.

Things are continuing to get better. When the Delta's hull was cracked, it also broke the Sea Dog rudder control shaft. I called the Sea Dog company today and they offered to replace and ship the replacement part to me at no charge. This is great!! Imagine if car companies were as responsive and customer-oriented as some kayak companies. Thank you, Sea Dog!!!!!

Nice to see that some manufacturers still know how to run a business. That little bit of good will will be returned in countless ways.

Wouldn't it be great if government would be that responsive to its patrons (us)?

Just an update on the repair to my damaged TCS -Thermoformed Composite- boat. I brought the damaged boat to the Kayak Centre of RI in Wickford RI and the technician repaired it per instructions from the builder. The repair looks good and cost only $220 - with $70 of that for materials that had to be ordered. TCS can take a hell of a beating, and when you do succeed in breaking it, it can be repaired relatively easily and cheaply. Summary: kudos to Delta Kayaks, the Sea Dog Co. and the Kayak Centre of RI. Thanks, guys!!

On bow (and stern) I use Thule 845 racheting tiedowns.

I cut off a few extra feet excess and burned the cut ends to seal them. Go on fast and do not come undone. With carabiners on the excess they are very useful for hanging spraydecks, hydration packs, etc while camping. They can easily be hung off the boat or a clothesline.

There is still excess line should I need to secure longer boats (mine are 16' and 16'6"). I use what I call a barrel hitch (prolly the wrong name) which is coiling the bitter end about 12-14 times around the line and threading the remainder through part of the coil and cinching. These have never come undone.

Certainly a non-stretching rope w. a trucker's hitch could be used as well.

It always pays to check the tiedowns every couple of hours on the road, (gas and rest stops) and always if the boat is tied down overnight.

Sounds like a great deal and pictures before and after?

I have straps but may go to a rope so I will get less problems with the wind. Truckers hitch to the tow eyes and receive on the rear.