New to the sport tell me the pro's and cons of each type of construction. Thinking of longevity, repairs, appearance over time. Thank you.

I think any material can have a very long life if it is treated right. Even polyethylene can last a very long time if it is stored and cared for properly.

I've been told by folks who should know, that fiberglass is the easiest to keep looking nice over the long run as far as composites are concerned.

Thermoform (ABS) should be very durable, but time will tell.

You kind of left out what might be one of the most important aspects and that is rigidity. Don't underestimate how a stiff material can make a difference in performance. I've paddled boats of every type of constuction and there's just something about a good composite boat. I believe that composites allow for unlimited design parameters that could be a challenge in some other construction materials and methods.

thanks!

whew that answer would be a book, not a post '-)

I own two composite boats (one is glass, the other kevlar/glass) and have owned two thermoforms (now just one, a SOT) have used them about equally over the last four years.

IMO it's not a case of which is "better". It is a case of which mfgr has higher QC.

I've seen fiberglass boats w. gel coat cracks and rear deck failures, or soft spots on hull or deck. Some of them, when taking a direct hit, expose voids where there is only gel and not much else.

I've seen thermoform boats that get brittle in cold water (40 degree range )or when stored direct on frozen ground. On impact some throw some long cracks, or lose a piece entirely (an irregularly shaped hole)

Either material will get torqued out of shape if tied down or racked improperly.

The integrity of the material depends on the mgfr's preferred layup, and their quality standards in using it.

Fiberglass is the timetested champion for light, strong boats (not just seakayaks, but other hulls).

It used to be a given that thermoforms would be lighter than fiberglass boats of comparable dimensions. But w. the advent fiberglass/kevlar and fiberglass/carbon, and w. the new vacuum bagging and even newer vacuum infusion in composite boats, that is no longer a rock solid conclusion.

Thermoforms (there are different patents of ABS plastics) have come on strong in the last 10 years or so, compared w. 40 years of glass boats. They are still a fraction of the market. Perhaps, in fairness, it is too soon for definitive judgments about which is "better."



Choose a boat based on the waters you want to paddle in, the kind of paddling you want to do, and fit/performance.

thanks may have a new boat this Saturday if it looks good. 08 CD Solstice GT

well, it's Sunday ')

if you did get the Solstice GT, congrats! a 2008 is a smart buy...

I have a CD boat, also, a 2007 Suka, a beautifully designed and crafted boat, light (41 lbs in kevlar/fglass) and strong - in April 25 river miles on a low river w. a lot of bottom suction.

Bought her near as new from a rep's demo fleet in 2009.

Boat had a FEW (3-4) light small scratches 3/4" on top may be bilge pump area or paddle stuck there. When I put 303 on it they are about gone. Bottom had about the same near perfect. Boat was like new and to good to be true. Got Thule easy glide roof rack, cockpit cover, spray skirt, C-tug dolly, and the 08 Solstice for 1600. Best deal I have got in my life. It was like X-mas and I got up a few times at night to look out the window at it. I want to sleep wit it but it was long for the bed and She told me NO!

Owner said he used it 3 times and bought a boat so I told him to drop by next year with it to Freeport. My GF and seller are in similar businesses of high tech so they were shooting the breeze while I gawked at the boat. Lot easier to handle than my Ocean Trident Prowler 15.5 at 60 pounds. I can grab this boat and snake it out of the deck to the dock and down to the floater fairly easy and launch it myself. The other boat makes me wonder if I really want to go paddling. If she is not home I usually take her Hobie Quest although it is the same weight it is 2.5 feet shorter and a world of difference getting off the deck.

Those hatch clip/straps are funky. Do they stay put if your climbing over the stern of the boat to get back in? Should I put inflatable cone in the bow or stern in case the hatches opened while trying to get back in the boat?

thanks.

Hey Dog: some info and some good news for ya

you wrote

Those hatch clip/straps are funky. Do they stay put if your climbing over the stern of the boat to get back in? Should I put inflatable cone in the bow or stern in case the hatches opened while trying to get back in the boat?

*****



There have been probs with those straps coming undone when someone is climbing over the back hatch. It happened to me w. my Suka, and it showed up in a Seakayaker review of the Suka in July 08. The straps are the same as for the Solstice series, the Caribou, the Isle. They were/are used in some Pygmy boat kits as well.


IIRC in 2009 going forward Current Designs upgraded to straps that have a snap instead of the "puzzle clip" config. I put them on both my Suka hatches and can testify they really are much more secure with a much lower profile & cleaner appearance. And I do lots of rescue practice, so these have been well-tested. I put them on the front hatch as well cuz I store the splits for my spare paddle on the foredeck.

(Don't store them on the aft deck, you need that clear for a rescue platform)

I just happen to have two sets (6 straps)of this upgraded type - brand new, never used, never wet straps.

Each set retails for $50 if you were to order from CD.

I'll sell one set or both to you for less. Shoot me and email and we'll take this offline.

Common sense told me they were not the greatest design. I PM'ed you interested in 6.

thanks