SK Newletters - April 8,2007 Sea Kayaker Magazine

Many of the sea kayak tour operators in the southern half of Mexico’s Baja peninsula are based in Loreto or La Paz, coastal communities on the Sea of Cortez side of the peninsula. Most of the tours visit uninhabited islands and coastlines near those two starting points. No multi-day tours go out of Cabo San Lucas because there are no nearby islands to paddle to and the sea is much more exposed there.

Loreto & La Paz comparison
Loreto is a sleepy Mexican fishing village about 8 hours by car from Cabo San Lucas. It was the original capital of the peninsula until 1828 when a hurricane leveled the town and the capital was permanently moved to La Paz. La Paz, a city of 280,000, is the main ferry terminus to mainland Mexico, and is located approximately half way between Loreto and Cabo San Lucas.

Loreto has limited flights arriving daily from Los Angeles and San Diego on Alaska, Delta and Aero Mexico airlines. La Paz has more options for flights on those airlines and others. Loreto is a 2-day drive south from San Diego, California, USA. Some guests fly into Cabo San Lucas to take advantage of cheap flights, and then take an air-conditioned bus to either Loreto or La Paz at a fraction of the cost.

Both Loreto and La Paz have several large uninhabited federally protected islands nearby that are exquisite sites for paddling and exploring. Both Loreto and La Paz are within reach of Magdalena Bay, the lagoon frequented by gray whales on the Pacific side of the peninsula. All the islands in the Sea of Cortez and all three gray whale lagoons on the Pacific Coast have national park status, and all outfitters and private parties entering must have the proper permits. Be sure to go with an outfitter that has the proper operating permits. Permitted outfitters are committed to preserving the laws and environment in which they operate and must pay all appropriate taxes to Mexico, must hire and train locals to be sea kayak guides and logistics managers, and have proper liability insurance and safety procedures/training.

Private parties are not permitted at all in Magdalena Bay, although they are allowed in the Sea of Cortez. Private parties may obtain the proper permits from the national park office in either La Paz or Loreto. Federal officers do regular site inspections in the park areas and they will ask to see your permit.

Self-supported vs. motorboat supported tours
Most sea kayak tour operators fall into either of these two camps, so be sure you inquire about what kind of tour the company runs, and what they include in the tour price. Tour outfitters have mostly double kayaks since the majority of guests are fairly new to kayaking, but some will have single kayaks along, too, for folks to rotate into. So this is another issue to explore.

Weather in Baja California Sur
Daytime temperatures late December through February range from the 70s to 80s (Farenheit), and night temperatures can dip to the 40s, requiring a warm sweater and hat. From March through early May temperatures range from the mid-80s to mid-90s during the day, and from 55-60 at night. While rain is infrequent on the Baja peninsula, it does occur between December and February. Bring synthetic and cotton clothes so you can dress for weather extremes. Your outfitter can provide an equipment list.

Water temperatures range from 68 to 72 degrees. Some find a wet suit a good idea for snorkeling from December through March. SPF clothing, light-colored, long-sleeved shirt, long pants and hats are rapidly gaining in popularity and are great for outdoor travel in sunny climes. Periods of strong winds lasting for up to 2-3 days can occur in this part of the world from November through March, although the winds start tapering off in February and March. Hurricane season is August through November. Temperatures soar above 110 degrees in June, July, and August, and most outfitters, wisely, don’t operate tours then.

Whales in Baja California Sur
Fin whales, humpbacks and rare blue whales, the largest living creature in the world today, frequent the Sea of Cortez February through mid April. The once endangered California gray whales, now numbering about 28,000, migrate each fall and winter down the Pacific coast from Alaska to spend February and the first half of March in the three large lagoon/inner waterways of Baja California peninsula's Pacific coast. There they rest, give birth and mate before heading back to Alaskan waters in late March.

Mexico strictly protects the three lagoons—Scammon's (Guerro Negro), San Ignacio and Magdalena Bay— where the California gray whales congregate. You can only go into the lagoons with a licensed kayak tour operator or motorized tour operator. Common dolphins, bottle nose dolphins and California sea lions are commonly seen throughout the waters of Baja. A common myth is that one can pet a whale from a kayak, but this has never been known to happen. Whales move much faster than a kayaker can paddle, and have never shown curiosity in kayaks.

However, it is becoming more and more common for some gray whales, referred to as "friendlies", to approach motorized boats in the lagoons and even occasionally be petted by humans. The boat operators licensed by the Mexican government are quite expert at knowing how to read the whales' behavior and make every effort to avoid stressing the whales.

Why go with an outfitter
There are weather patterns unique to the Sea of Cortez. The seas and winds can be quite challenging at times and destinations remote, thus seasoned guides are an invaluable asset unless you are very experienced doing self-supported tours in this kind of environment. A permitted outfitter will have the knowledge, experience, sound equipment, and the commitment to safety that can allow you to relax and enjoy your vacation in Baja California.

The remoteness of the southern part of the Baja peninsula, its weather, and liability issues make finding expedition kayaks to rent in Loreto or La Paz extremely difficult.The outfitters who have fleets of touring boats won’t rent them because they need them to run their tours.

Why Sea Kayaking
Kayaking is a magical, quiet sport, quickly and easily learned; the craft are stable and seaworthy. Wildlife is less threatened by a person quietly drifting by in a kayak than by any other approach. It is a great way to spend time with new friends in a wilderness setting. Kayaks can carry more gear than backpacks so many former hikers are turning to sea kayaking. A guided sea kayak tour in Baja is a great way to enjoy the sport in a beautiful setting.