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An effective sequence for turning a kayak into the wind, in this case to the
right, is to start with good forward speed, look right, edge-tilt left and sweep
stroke on the left (downwind) side. While maintaining the left (downwind) edge-tilt,
follow the sweep with a bow rudder on the right (upwind) side. It’s best
not to rush the sweep but to make a quick transition to the bow rudder at the
end of the sweep.
During the bow rudder, the blade’s angle of attack will pull the bow to
the right. Placing the blade as far forward as possible will also increase the
lateral resistance at the bow, retarding the bow’s downwind drift while
the stern remains free to drift, complementing the turn. Leaning forward will
help you get the blade farther where it will be more effective as well as sink
the bow deeper in the water, increasing its lateral resistance. Hold the bow
rudder for only a moment to avoid any significant loss of speed. A loss of speed
is detrimental to an upwind turn because it decreases the weathercocking you’re
using to enhance the turn. Any speed you lose in the turn will be difficult to
regain as you head into the wind. To help maintain your speed, blend the bow
rudder into a forward stroke on the same side. Be sure to keep the forward stroke
straight back so it doesn’t become a sweep stroke turning you in the wrong
direction.
A bow rudder is an effective tool for upwind turns, but any paddle technique
with a paddle placement aft of the cockpit will put you at a distinct disadvantage.
It’s quite common for beginners to use a stern rudder when trying to turn
the kayak upwind, but the aft placement of the blade will increase lateral resistance
aft and cause the bow to swing downwind. Some novices will even revert to a reverse-sweep
stroke on the upwind side when they discover the stern rudder doesn’t work.
That will only serve to make matters worse, as a reverse-sweep stroke dramatically
diminishes the forward speed that would contribute to a turn into the wind.
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