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On the Missouri, where the dams are large and easily seen from a distance, I came to see them as both a blessing and a curse. A blessing because it meant I’d be able to leave the work of paddling still water and get back to going with the flow; a curse because it was time to get out and walk—a sizeable chore with a fully loaded kayak.
While most of us think of dams as large visible walls rising above the river, that’s not always the case. Wing dams, which are typically stone jetties built perpendicular to the shore to narrow the channel and increase the current, are often a hazard because they’re unmarked and frequently underwater when river levels are high. On wide stretches of a working river, you’ll be fine if you paddle near the middle (but stay clear of the marked channel used by larger boats). If you’re near the bank and spy a marked change in the pattern of the river, beware. Some obstruction may be lurking just below the surface.
Smaller dams that let water spill over may look runnable, but the recirculating water at the bottom of the dam is an accident waiting to happen. Known as “keepers,” this tumbling water can trap and submerge small craft. Always consult your map to see if there’s a dam on your route; if so, look for signs that tell you where to take out and portage around it.
 Diversion dams shift the river to a canal and raise the water level without creating a significant pool of still water. On the Missouri, I learned this the hard way. Though I noticed a diversion dam was marked on my map, I didn’t know what one looked like. As I headed downstream, the submerged barrier was nearly invisible. I noticed that the river had slowed down some and I heard the rush of water, but I discovered the four-foot drop over the dam only when it was too late to avoid going over it. I splashed down on the other side, my heart racing. A motorist who’d stopped to watch honked with delight. I flashed him the cool-guy thumbs up and thanked the God of Diversion Dams for not shattering my boat. I have yet to make that mistake again.
Revetments, sections of large riprap stone lining the banks, are built to redirect the flow of the river and to prevent bank erosion. On the lower Mississippi, for example, it can be difficult to get out of these channelized sections, especially if there’s a lot of boat traffic nearby. Revetments are usually marked on river charts, so you’ll know where they are and can plan your day so you don’t get trapped on the river when it’s time to come ashore for lunch or find a place to crash for the night.
On navig able rivers, dams are accompanied by locks that carry boats between the upstream and downstream sides of the dam. On the Lower Saranac River in upstate New York, for example, the locks are small and fill up relatively quickly. Look for the lockmaster or a sign instructing you how to “lock through.” When locking down, the water stays pretty quiet, but be prepared for some turbulence when locking up.
With some of the larger locks, it can be quicker to carry around, especially if there are boats in front of you. Paddling up the Mississippi, I came to the massive lock at Alton, Illinois, the historic river town near the confluence of the Mississippi and Illinois rivers. The carry through town seemed nightmarishly long. On the other hand, the lock was designed for boats approximately 1,082 feet longer than my craft. I told the lockmaster what I was up to and he said that if I didn’t mind sharing the space with a supertanker, I was welcome to paddle on in. And so I did. An hour later, after graciously allowing this floating city block to exit first, I paddled up river to the less hectic Illinois. |
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