On
our last evening, Brent and I visited a fisherman in his shanty
on the beach. We had seen him as we made landfall and wanted to
make sure we could share his beach for the night. For a few pesos,
he happily sold us a couple of beautiful fish—a sierra and
a mackerel. As he prepared them for us, he told us of the problems
he was having with sea lions robbing his nets and tearing them
to shreds. Back at camp, we made a salsa with fresh chilies, tomato,
onion and some herbs. After frying the fish in a little olive oil,
we wrapped the whole lot up in burritos and ate them on the beach,
sipping the last of our tequila as the light drained from the sky.
The
warm wind that had pushed us along all day had died, and the low
surf crashed lazily onto our little beach in the still evening
air. The sky gradually filled with stars, and the bushes were alive
with chirping crickets. Just then I realized that I had found what
I had sought here. We’d
come a long way in the time allocated, but more important, the
journey had allowed us to shed the chaotic load that so often
accompanies our working lives. Away from project deadlines, help-desk
calls and the constant interruptions of our daily routines, we
had shouldered out the chaos by the rhythm of tides and waves.
Steinbeck
experienced a similar thing here: “The matters of great importance
we had left were not important. There must be an infective quality
in these things. We had lost the virus, or it had been eaten by
the antibodies of quiet. Our pace had slowed greatly; the hundred
thousand small reactions of our daily world were reduced to very
few.”
Even now, I occasionally think of that
cactus spine in my foot. I like to imagine it was a kind of inoculación
de Baja—a vaccination against the stress that, left untreated,
can result in the sudden short flights of mobile phones.
Malcolm Gunn lives in Wellington,
New Zealand, where he is a computer systems manager. His kayaking
ventures have taken him to Tierra del Fuego, Alaska, Mexico,
Queensland and most of New Zealand’s remote coastline.
His recipe for a great trip is a mix of good mates, good coffee
and a durable sense of humor. He is a regular contributor to
Sea Kayaker and several other outdoors publications. Malcolm
can be contacted at: malcolm@malcolmgunn.com
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