|
Who Forgot
the Seed Potatoes?
OK, you've landed. But unless someone brought seed potatoes, a
fishing pole, and an ax to build a cabin and spend the winter,
the following morning you'll have to paddle back out through the
surf. Launches are more difficult than landings for the simple
reason that you're trying to move against the motion of the water.
If you make a mistake on a landing, the waves will probably wash
you onto the beach, which is where you want to be. But if you
make a mistake while launching, then the waves will probably wash
you onto the beach, which is where you don't want to be.
The key to
launching is to build enough speed to punch through the breaking
wave. If you are moving too slowly, the breaking wave will catapult
you over backward or wash you onto the beach, where you started.
If the wave is breaking far off the beach, paddle out and hit
it with as much speed and power as you can muster. But on many
coastlines there is a nasty shore break that beats right on the
beach. The best technique to combat a close-in break is for one
person to remain on foot and to push his or her partners through
the surf. Of course, you ask, who goes out last, without assistance?
You can play rock-scissors-paper, take turns, or pick the dufus
who locked the car keys in the shuttle rig.
Here's the
system we used along the Kamchatka coast. We dragged the first
kayak down the beach until it was close to the surf, but still
sitting on wet sand. The first paddler climbed aboard and I would
drag the boat a little farther, until it floated when a wave rolled
in and sat on the sand when the wave receded. Waves usually come
in sets: three or four big ones, a few medium, and then a set
of small ones. We watched the ocean until the timing was right.
Then, I grabbed the bow loop and towed the boat into the surf
until I couldn't run any more. (It's important to pull from the
bow, because if you push from the stern, the kayak can deflect
off a wave and turn sideways.) Quickly, as the paddler started
stroking, I ducked under the upraised shaft, and gave the stern
a huge shove. Generally, the momentum and paddling pushed the
boat through the wave into the deep water.
As the last
at the beach I was without anyone to help me. I sealed myself
into the cockpit while the kayak was high and dry. Then I scooted
the boat down the beach with my hands. It is quite common for
the waves to hit the beach at an oblique angle. After the wave
has washed up the beach, the water recedes down the beach at a
different angle, usually perpendicular to the beach. In this situation,
as I was scooting along, the boat would float on the wash and
follow it down the slope of the beach. Then, the next breaking
wave would hit the bow at an angle, turn it sideways, and wash
the boat back up the beach. The problem was that the water breaking
on the beach was foamy and aerated. I couldn't get any power out
of a paddle stroke and I couldn't brace. I tried every technique
I knew, but, on average, I washed back up the beach three times
before I blasted through the shore break.
Ultimately,
speed, power, and luck turned out to be more important than timing.
I'd push like a madman, get the boat floating, and then hope that
I'd find green water before the break hit me. If I could manage
just one or two quick strokes, I'd hit the wave with enough speed
to crank a prying, bracing stroke that would pull me through.
Ocean waves
are powerful and dangerous, but most of them will carry you toward
shore. You might get thrashed and you might capsize, but you'll
probably be alright if you wash back up the beach. Bail out the
boat if necessary, catch your breath, let your adrenaline settle
out, and try again.
In some instances,
however, undertows or rip tides carry hapless boaters out to sea.
If you're caught in a powerful rip and you're in your boat, relax.
You can't fight against a force of nature that is more powerful
than you are. Even though this advice seems counter-intuitive,
paddle away from shore, into deep water. Eventually, you'll leave
the shore current behind you. Then swing wide and approach the
beach in a place where the shore current is weak. However, if
you have capsized and you're swimming, a rip or undertow can drag
you into deep water unless you can move across the current and
out of it. Try to get back in the cockpit, bail out, and reattach
your sprayskirt. Get underway and move away from the current because
your survival may depend on it.
Previous
page
|