Leaving
my kayak in a scraggly stand of stunted spruce trees at the bottom
of the 70-foot waterfall, I hiked up to the top of the falls to fix
my lunch. I settled myself on a rocky granite ledge at the top of
the waterfall and started cooking my lunch on the stove beside me,
as my feet dangled in the cool mist. Suddenly, I noticed a stranger
walking up the steep path toward me. He had long black hair and a
beard, and was wearing mud-streaked pants and a baggy sweater that
hung loosely around his thin frame. A mosquito head net flipped up
over his head was held in place by a red bandanna. Approaching, he
sat silently down beside me.
I offered him some gorp, and he nodded and took a handful. After a
few munches, he finally spoke: "Nice breeze, no bugs." Feeling
somewhat unnerved by the man's demeanor, I asked him if he wanted
some water. He shook his head and helped himself to some more gorp.
As I stirred the boiling noodles, my curiosity rose.
We were deep in the woods on the Pigeon River, near the Canadian-Minnesota
border-a long way from any road. I was traveling alone, and hadn't
seen a soul in more than three days. In the 12 days since I had climbed
into my kayak, I had already paddled 250 miles down the fur trader's
historic border route over 32 lakes and down three rivers. I had carried
my gear and kayak over 30 portages and, if my luck held, I would get
to the infamous nine-mile Grand Portage that leads to Lake Superior
in just a couple of hours.
Since the start of my trip, I had been charged by a mother moose,
been harassed by bears, waded through thigh-deep mud on portages,
and run numerous unmarked rapids in my 18-foot sea kayak. Through
it all I had been tormented by hordes of bloodthirsty mosquitoes that
would make a preacher swear. I had come to take all of this as part
of a normal day, but this guy was definitely out of the ordinary.
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