Birding is a deservedly popular pastime here. Avian numbers aren't nearly what they were when plume hunters depleted and threatened the bird population in the late 1800s. Subsequently, the Audubon Society established rangers in the 'Glades to protect the birds, at the Society's own expense. When a ranger was killed by plume hunters in 1907, a national outcry ensued, ultimately increasing protection for Southern Florida birds. Today, avian enthusiasts still have plenty to see, from roseate spoonbills-often mistaken for pink flamingos-to pelicans, eagles and osprey. If you wish to do birding here, be sure to bring binoculars and a field guide.

We stopped for lunch at Jewel Key, one of just a few islands with a rocky beach. A "rocky" beach here is defined as a few rocks mixed in with a lot of sand. Most beaches are sand beaches. While the beaches are kind to kayaks, underneath the water lies a different menace: oyster bars. These large clumps of shells with sharp edges will scrape a plastic kayak or glass boat and turn a folding kayak into a shredded boat. I do not recommend a folding kayak for the northern Everglades. Oyster bars are often found in island shallows. When walking here, wear shoes that cover your entire foot. Paddlers in the southern Flamingo area of the 'Glades don't face much of this hazard.