Arriving at Tiger Key, I erected the tent by the flickering flames of a driftwood fire, backlit by a rising moon. Bill grilled hamburgers as the tide drifted out, extending our beach. It was a good thing we landed around high tide. With a full moon and corresponding extreme tides, paddlers often have to drag their boats a long way to access the water. The ranger stations give out free tide charts that are very helpful in planning paddle times.

Early the next morning, a few no-see-ums nagged us as we loaded the kayaks and headed south on calm waters along the Pavilion Key Route. The expanse of the Gulf lay to our right and the labyrinth of islands to our left. As we paddled southeast along the edge of the keys, we decided to try our luck at trolling. I rigged my medium-weight rod with a Mirrolure, a minnow-like artificial lure, and fastened the rod under the deck bungies. It wasn't long before the pole jerked, and I reeled in a two-pound sea trout-numerous in the Gulf.

When trolling, use lures that float. That way, if you have to stop, the lure won't snag on the ocean bottom. Fishing is popular in the Everglades. In addition to fishing from a boat, I've had good luck surf fishing for snook, especially when I've used a Mirrolure on a rising tide. Snook, Jack Crevalle and mangrove snapper roam the rich, brackish waters that lie between the salty Gulf and the inland sheet of freshwater flowing toward the ocean. Sea trout and reds are common along the coast. Of course, angling areas often overlap. A valid Florida saltwater license is required. When obtaining your license, check the current size and creel limits.