Beyond Jewel Key, we kept southeast. The turquoise waters of the open Gulf lay to our right, while a labyrinth of verdant islands shielded the mainland. The sun shone brightly overhead. Rabbit Key, a small island of a few acres, was our next stopping point. A couple of hours later, three miles from Jewel Key, we were paddling along the eastern shoreline of Rabbit Key. Paddling around a point of land, we turned and followed a narrow trail of water inland. It opened out into a broad, sandy lagoon-a protected backcountry campsite. Rabbit Key is within striking distance of Chokoloskee Island, the other jumping-off point for the Ten Thousand Islands. We stretched our legs, then returned to the boats, as the afternoon was passing quickly.

We then veered due south into wide-open, but shallow waters. The ocean was as smooth as polished marble. We passed Little Pavilion Key, just a smattering of sandbars. A century ago clammers lived here in huts perched on stilts over the water. These settlers harvested clams from the adjacent waters, finding them with their feet (which were wrapped in canvas to keep them from getting cut, yet allowing them to feel the clams). Storms, winds and the tides have obliterated any evidence of their time here. A short time later, we began the approach to Pavilion Key. With the tide out, we had to stroke far into the Gulf to access the island, in order to avoid extremely shallow water.

Pavilion Key is more than a mile long and a quarter-mile wide. The backcountry camping area, on the sandy northern tip of the isle, accommodates 20 campers per night. A long spit of land extends out from the forested part of Pavilion Key, catching ocean breezes. The long western shore is mostly sand, offering beachcombing opportunities.