Caring for a Wooden Paddle

A wooden touring paddle that is treated well should need minimal maintenance. After a year of fairly rough kayaking, I face far more work on the gel coat of my boat than on my paddle. Unless you are quite careless with your paddle or work full-time as a guide, the original finish should last for several years.

Epoxy, polyester and wood are composed of organic compounds, which lose strength and beauty if exposed to too much ultraviolet radiation. While paint may be the best choice for a wooden house, paddles are usually coated in varnish or a modern synthetic equivalent. Early varnish was a mixture of oils and resins from plants. When dried, it was much like an instant coating of amber. Modern varnishes achieve a similar appearance with mostly synthetic or semi-synthetic resins, with ultraviolet (UV)-absorbing agents added for longer life and volatile solvents replacing some of the oil, for quick drying. Since polyurethane is the newest synthetic resin, even slightly older synthetics are often called "traditional varnish." Softer resins give a less slippery finish that will make it less fatiguing to hang onto your paddle, especially in rough conditions.

The coatings protect wood by being themselves degraded by the elements, and they will eventually need to be reapplied. Unless you store your paddle in the sun when not in use, scratches will certainly damage the finish before UV does, but the hardest scratch-resistant polyurethane may not be the best choice for a paddle.

To refinish your paddle, roughen the old surface with 180- or 220-grit sandpaper, carefully wipe off the sanding dust with a clean towel or tack cloth, and apply the finish lightly with an inexpensive foam brush. Foam works as well as or better than all but the most expensive bristles, and you won’t have to expend effort or generate toxic waste by cleaning a bristle brush with mineral spirits after each coat. When dry, sand very lightly again and grab a new brush. Apply three or four coats. Less-expensive varnish may contain more solvent and less resin, requiring more coats than a pricey marine-grade varnish.

Store your paddle in a reasonably clean, dry, and well-ventilated place out of the sun. A musty corner on the shady side of the garage or a leaky shed is asking for trouble. Disassemble break-down paddles when not in use. While wood rot is unlikely, if the paddle is stored too often with water trapped in the ferrule, rot could occur if the end of the shaft is not well sealed. Wooden paddles can rot if the wood absorbs too much dirt (a source of spores) and water (which allows the spores to germinate and grow). In extreme cases, water absorption could also lead to de-lamination. Wood swells as it absorbs water, and various pieces may swell unequally, stressing the glued joints.

While wooden paddles require some care and maintenance, they can be durable performers with an appearance and a feel that no other paddles can equal.

Mike Wagenbach, of Seattle, is a molecular biologist, a woodworking hobbyist and a trip coordinator for a kayak club.