| by Keith Keller
Photo: Kevin
Johnson
'A sense of impending
doom was definitely on me. I was starting to
think about my funeral. I just didin't see how
we were going to get out of it.'
.......The popularity
of both sea kayaking and whale watching has in
recent years inspired something of a renaissance
in the tiny community of Telegraph Cove on Vancouver
Island's northeast coast. This isolated pocket,
once a hub of lumber-related activity, was on
the verge of falling silent in 1979 when the
Wastell family, for decades the operators of
Telegraph Cove Sawmills, closed their antiquated
operation. Taking an entrepreneurial leap of
faith, employees Bill Mackay and Jim Borrowman
teamed up to launch a venture called Stubbs Island
Charters. In addition to hauling freight and
running dive charters, the pair intended to take
the paying public into Johnstone Strait to show
them the killer whales that have made the area
world famous. Telegraph Cove pioneer Fred Wastell,
who had spent much of his life towing logs and
hauling lumber in and around Johnstone Strait,
told the pair bluntly: "Nobody's going to
pay to look at those darned blackfish." He
did, however, offer to lease them his pride and
joy, the sixty-foot Gikumi. From those humble
beginnings, Borrowman and Mackay and "those
darned blackfish" have made Stubbs Island
Charters a major coastal eco-tourism attraction.
|
........Kayakers by the thousand make
pilgrimages to Johnstone Strait to paddle among killer
whales and to explore the adjacent Broughton Archipelago.
Many arrive unprepared for the rigorous conditions
they're liable to encounter. As a result, Borrowman
and Mackay have over the years delivered many exhausted,
wet, humbled kayakers to safety on the Gikumi and its
new sister vessel, the Lukwa. For sheer drama, however,
none of their rescues match the one they performed
on the first day of spring, 1988, with the assistance
of fellow Telegraph Cove resident Dan Mooney. In an
ironic twist of circumstances, the couple they rescued,
Debra Kuykendall (now Debra LeClair), then a student
at Oregon State University, and her boyfriend, geologist
Kevin Johnson, would almost certainly have died if
the high winds which contributed to their misadventure
hadn't forced Mooney to take the day off work. Kevin
Johnson:....I'd tried kayaking, not necessarily sea
kayaking, but kayaking somewhere, and read something
in a magazine about it. I've always liked Canada and
thought it would be a great opportunity to go out there
and give it a try.
........We drove up to Port Angeles and took the ferry
over to Victoria and stopped at a place in Victoria
that rented us a sea kayak. They gave us some advice
for some nice areas where you could kinda go around
a bit—nice protected areas, that kind of stuff.
Being totally unfamiliar with the water conditions
up there, I thought, "Hell, let's just drive up
the island, look for another spot, maybe we can find
a little island to camp out on." All this kind
of thing. That's pretty much what we did. We drove
up the island and ended up in Alert Bay.
.......I was a little more enthusiastic about it than
Deb was. I think she was a little more cautious and
I was a little more of a risk-taker at the time. We
got out there and the weather was a little rainy and
a little cool, but nothing unexpected for March. We
put in and the water was beautiful, nice and calm,
and we went out maybe a mile to an island, got some
of our stuff out, set up a camp. There were several
little islands there in the area, and there were eagles
around and the water was crystal clear.
.......We got up the next day, and the wind had picked
up and things were a little more active. Deb was kind
of relying on me to be the team leader, and, unfortunately,
I was out of my realm. I didn't have a good grip on
what the conditions were out there. I could see the
weather was getting a little snotty, but we didn't
have any water there on the island and I was getting
a little nervous about staying out there any more than
a day. I said, "Let's go for it, try and make
it back to where our car's parked." We were both
pretty nervous about it.
Deb LeClair:...Things looked pretty choppy. I got
that real bad feeling in my gut, looking out and
seeing it get progressively worse. Both of our thoughts
were, not knowing the weather patterns up there at
all, that it could get really bad. We might be stuck
here on this island for days. We didn't have food
or water for days.
.......I didn't feel good about it at all, but he
kept reassuring me: "Ah, you know, we grew up
on the Oregon coast. This isn't any worse. It's no
big deal." Trying to convince me of that. Now
when he looks back on it, he knows it was a really
wrong choice. I remember at one point almost being
in tears about going. Just that feeling of, "No,
this isn't okay," and, "Wait, I have to
go to the bathroom one more time."
.......By the time we broke down camp, there were
definitely whitecaps. That made me real nervous.
.......The other thing was that the chart and the
tide book we had didn't seem to coincide, so we couldn't
even tell the tide for where we were. That was really
stupid, because they were against us.
Johnson:..We got through a little bit of rough water
and that wasn't too bad. The tide currents up there
are really something, extremely fierce. There was
some pretty big water for what the day before had
been smooth as glass. Not understanding the tides
up there, I didn't realize that if we'd just held
tight for a few hours, it probably would have eased
up quite a bit, and we would have had a much easier
time of it. We got within probably thirty yards of
an island big enough to put in to and get all our
stuff up on. It had some trees on it and was somewhat
protected. At the time I was aiming at that thing.
But we were dealing with something that neither one
of us could handle. It was beyond our experience.
LeClair:..The
person in the back controls the rudder, and at that
point I remember very well asking him why we kept
shifting. He kept changing course on me, I thought.
We had a plan to head straight for this little island,
but out a little bit, then cut in and ride the current
into it. And I kept saying, "Why
do you keep changing our course?" He didn't
say anything for awhile, and I said, "Why?!" I
was getting really tense then. He finally said, "I'm
not. I've got the rudder all the way the other way." That's
when I knew that we were in trouble.
........We were almost to this rocky little island
and I remember looking at a log resting on the bank
and watching to see if we were making progress. And
we were drifting back; the current had taken over.
That's what drew us into this point where apparently
the water is coming from one side and the other—there
are about three currents pushing together. It was
just this great big whitewater mess. That's where
we dumped.
Johnson:...
We came up on this standing wave. We got into it
crossways and it just rolled us over. Out we went.
I told Deb to hang onto the kayak. We gathered up
a little bit of our stuff, which took quite a while,
ten or fifteen minutes to get up into the kayak.
We shot off one flare, probably the best $12.95 I
ever spent. The current was picking us up and we
went just zooming by the island. She was saying something
about trying to swim for it, and I told her, "No
way, stick with the boat." |
|
Advertising contact: paul@seakayakermag.com
|